Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Days 1 – 3 (September 9-11, 2015): Crete

The Quick Facts

* Stayed at the Kapsaliana Village Hotel, located about an hour west of Heraklion, near the Arkadi Monastery
* Toured the Palace of Knossos, the great Minoan city and center of power
* Visited the Arkadi Monastery and then hiked back to our hotel
*  Made our way to the coast, which entailed a beautiful drive through the small villages and canyons of Crete


The Good:

* The food at our hotel was amazing, especially for what we paid for it!
* Crete has a mountainous landscape with breathtaking canyons that make for some gorgeous views
* Awesome beaches – numerous and secluded, we never felt crowded


The Bad:

* Lufthansa, who didn’t have the decency to tell us our flight was cancelled and therefore delayed our trip 24 hours


After ~31 hours of traveling, we finally made our way to Crete, the beginning of our two week stay in Greece.

Thanks to the good folks at Lufthansa, our stay in Crete was one day shorter than planned.  The airline’s pilots were conducting rolling one-day strikes on long-haul flights as part of on-going negotiations, and it so happens our original flight out of Denver was impacted.  Had they bothered to notify us that this was happening, we could have adjusted and not lost a day.  Instead, we found out via the morning news the day we were supposed to leave and as a result left a day later.  Not impressed.

We arrived in Crete late at night so just stayed at a hotel near the airport in Heraklion, one of Crete’s major cities.  Our hotel did have a nice view of an old fort built on the water:




On our first full day, we rented a car and made our way to our first stop: Palace of Knossos, located in the eastern part of the island very close to the main city of Heraklion.  The Palace of Knossos is the restored city and palace of the great Minoan civilization which flourished on Crete from 2700BC to about 1450BC.  The palace was eventually excavated by the British in the early 1900s, and is now a major tourist spot in Crete.  The only mystery that remains is why the Minoan civilization came to an end.  Here are some pictorial highlights:

Something must be VERY interesting here...





This is the line to get into the throne room!  Yikes, better be good...



Windsor Palace it is not...




We then made the hour or so drive west to our hotel, which required the navigation of an intricate system of roads and alleys through small towns – so difficult in fact, the hotel provides 8 pages of directions complete with pictures.  Somehow, we made it.  And it was worth the trip.  With a beautiful and peaceful setting, the hotel has wonderful views of the surrounding area and a restaurant that produced some of the best food we had during our entire trip to Greece.

The door to our hotel room:


View from the hotel grounds:




Once settled at our hotel, we headed out to the Arkadi Monastery, a pilgrimage site for most Cretans and a wonderful piece of Renaissance architecture.  The story of the monastery is quite sad: built in the 16th century, it eventually came under attack from the Turks in the 1800s.  In 1866, the Turks were attempting to take control of the monastery but the residents at the time refused to surrender; when the Turks finally broke through the gate, the Cretans who refused to surrender set their gunpowder storeroom on fire, killing themselves and the attacking Turks.  Hundreds of people died.  Today the monastery is still used by monks, and is open to tourists to view the wonderful architecture and grounds.







After touring the monastery, we decided to take the ~2 hour hike back to our hotel to view the countryside a bit. 







Our next full day in Crete, our last, was spent making our way west on the island, through a series of small villages followed by a drive through steep canyons to eventually arrive at the coast for some beach time.  The beaches, clean and private, are some of the best on the island.  Even a non-beach person such as myself couldn’t help but be impressed.







After a rough day at the beach, we made our way back to the hotel to sit at the pool and have dinner.  It would be an early start the next day to travel to our next stop: Santorini.

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